Bsa Airsporter Serial Numbers3305100

How do I find year and model number for BSA 270 with 8B497 serial number I have a BSA 270 hunting rifle I inherited. - BSA Optics question. .22 Mk lI BSA Airsporter, A Review.22 BSA Airsporter and a.177 BSA Cadet, sharing a common heritage. From just in front of the serial number, out a bit,.

The have undergone some minor changes and updates. Please take the time to read them; it will only take a couple of minutes of your time. By doing so, you lessen the chance of incurring the wrath of the moderation team or making yourself look foolish to other members. 90% of users posting adverts in the Sales forums need to be reminded to read the rules as their posts are wrong. This is unnecessarily time-consuming and will no longer happen - if your advert doesn't follow the it will be deleted and you'll have to start all over again. To close this box once you've read it (and the Rules), click on the X in the top right-hand corner. I have a old airsporter it was my grandads air rifle it was old and rusted up so I have done my best at restoring it back to glory.

I have it down do bear metal and need to remove the pitting over the gone and then decide how to finish it with blueing it or leave it bear shiny silver but I need help just knowing the age I think it is a mk1 but I'm not sure I have the barcode near the trigger and that's it it has no engravings in the wood and just the iron sights on the barrel. 609868 is the barcode. People only discourage re-bluing on old guns like this as it kills their originality and hence value.

Be aware that you're working with two different metals here - the barrel, cylinder and underlever are (or should be) blued steel. The trigger block (the bit you've polished in your pic) is cast ally and as such can't be blued.

Not sure what the finish the trigger block was from the factory (perhaps anodised or a gloss powdercoat / paint?) however from an originality perspective now that you've removed the original finish, a black finish in-keeping with the look of the original would be preferable to polished bare metal. Have you done anything to the rest of the gun yet? Any more pics? By the time they get to this age, unless they've been cossetted they're usually a bit worse for wear.

While evidently not the best example these older (Mk1 and Mk2) Airsporters are the ones to have - anything past the Mk3 was s**t. Looking at your rifle ash I'd say you can't do any harm trying out re-blueing it yourself. In-fact I'd say you can only improve on it's current state. I'd try using a Birchwood Casey Blueing kit: [video=youtube;L0eMj_r_jgU]I've never done re-blueing myself but I did hear a good tip from someone else who has and they said to gently warm up the parts you're blueing with a blowtorch before you start re-blueing as it apparently works better if the steel is a little warm.

As for the trigger block I'd either spray paint that yourself or have a company properly powder coat it for you. Maybe wait to see how your re-blueing comes out so you can decide whether you want to spend the money on it or not and just do it yourself. I want to 're blue it but I don't trust myself to do it correctly and the blueing kit dose not prevent the rifle from further rust in the future. S vlad models. I was thinking more of a clear layer or laqor or paint that won't rust but indont know what yet:/ I will do some more work on it and try to remove all the pitting and make it as nice as I can and then decide on blueing or not nothing like a bit of elbow geese if u know any suggestions on paint or a way to stop the rust let me know. Thanks though 're blueing is definitely an option depending on the final finish I get. I will keep uploading photos on progress to this chat also and dose anybody know how to take the main part of the rifle apart from the trigger section?

Thanks for the help everyone so far. I'd avoid cold bluing solutions as while useful for small parts / touching up, it won't look great if used to do the whole gun, neither is it very durable so will fade with use. If re-bluing (which IMO is pretty much your only legit option give the state the gun was in and the fact that it's now back to bare metal) you either want to get it done professionally or do it properly with slow rust bluing (google is your friend). Don't waste your time looking at alternative, more corrosion resistant finishes - they'll destroy any value the gun might have left and are wholly un-necessary if the gun is looked after properly.